Saturday, March 10, 2012

"Shikata ga nai"

This was an editorial I wrote shortly after the 11 March 2011 earthquake. I thought it would be appropriate to post it on the one year anniversary of the event.
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Shikata ga nai,” is something that was said to me quite often growing up in a traditional Japanese home. It is a phrase for our philosophy; we say it in times of extreme devastation and we say it in day-to-day life.   Of the many translations, perhaps the most appropriate and often perfected is, “It cannot be helped.” During the short time I have been living in Japan as a guest in their country and a service member of the United States Air Force, I find myself saying shikata ga nai more than I would have expected.  I am extremely impressed by the ability of the Japanese people to maintain their composure, stay true to their polite traditions and exhibit nothing less courteous demeanor.  It is in fact so apparent, that it begs the question, why doesn’t the rest of the world display the same values?

Just a few days into the New Year, I arrived in Misawa Air Base with no expectations except for getting settled in as quickly as possible. With my eyes trained far ahead on the long road of adjusting to my new life, I was caught completely by surprise when my world was turned on end in a matter of just a few minutes.  In the days before the enormous earthquake on March 11, Japan experienced its introduction to the coming days’ havoc.  Preceded by an approximate 6.1M earthquake, the historic 9.0M quake left a mark on the people of Japan as well as my own psyche.  I was sitting in my office and will never forget the rumbling of my two computer monitors as they clashed against one another during the 7-minute long earthquake that shook the islands of Japan. My unit chief yelled from his office in a relatively calm voice, “Earthquake!”  We all sat tensely waiting to see when—or if—it would end.  After a minute passed, I ran to my door to check on my co-workers, exclaiming that it was so surreal.  The quake continued, and I started to feel sea sick as I tried to make my way outside.  Behind me I saw the building where I work and noticed the Japanese Air Self Defense Force’s (JASDF) weather observation tower swaying back and forth against the inconsistent waves of the quake. The moment the earthquake ceased was the beginning of seemingly endless aftershocks, one after another. Some of the “aftershocks” were as big as 6.0 at the epicenter; luckily the ripples weren’t as strong as the big quake.

After it ended, I rushed straight to my computer to look at the potential tsunami warnings. The Japan Meteorological Agency is the primary source of tsunami information and warnings throughout the country; and the outlook was not good.  The tsunami warning indicated tide heights quickly changed from 3-8 feet to an approximate height of 30 feet for the Aomori Prefecture.  Misawa Air Base was lucky to escape the tsunami.  While only three miles from the Pacific Coast, the elevation is just over 100 feet. As people from the Air Operations unit started communicating with us in the weather unit, we received word from the local Japanese news station, NHK, that the situation was grave.  Our neighboring city of Hachinohe was seeing effects of the tsunami.  Hachinohe, “Hach” for short, is only 20 miles from Misawa and witnessing the water inundate the community put into perspective that we could have been in the same situation.  Watching NHK news coverage with our JASDF counterparts, there really wasn’t any need for translation— the tsunami waves were starting to roll into the coastal cities and obliterate anything in its paths.  “This is only the beginning,” I thought to myself.  And it was.

Once we started to comprehend that cities were being flooded, people were missing, and that power grids were offline, the base was ordered to attain 100% accountability for personnel. With no cell phone capabilities and no landline communication, we had to physically drive to the homes of our Airmen.  This proved difficult because not only are there differences in laws and driving styles but drivers were left with little more than the moon and the stars to light their way.   Driving rules such as free-for-all 4-way stops added to the chaos of the situation.  The streets were pitch black save for a few brave souls on the road, my own headlights and the stars. Misawa is not a typical busy Japanese city but is usually illuminated brightly—bright enough to not fully appreciate the stars on a daily basis.  I will never forget that drive home.  When I arrived, I took a moment before entering to enjoy the peaceful stars, so blissfully unaware of the terror experienced down here on Earth. 
I did not know what to expect, except for a cold house and maybe a few broken belongings. When I took my boots off and planted my feet on the wooden floor, they immediately froze but I endured the cold while my one flashlight illuminated a path through my house.  It was about eight in the evening and I remember my digital weather station telling me that it was 43 degrees Fahrenheit in my house.  I wanted nothing more than to get warm.  After a quick peanut butter and jelly sandwich and a sleeping pill to guarantee some rest, I went to bed.  I was still awoken three times that night by aftershocks.

From day one of the crisis in Japan, Americans and Japanese have both understood the importance of a collective humanitarian mission.  The near-instantaneous shift from day-to-day operations to “Operation Tomodachi (Friends)” brought with it goals for ensuring continued health and welfare of all people affected by the quake.   Misawa Air Base quickly transformed into one of the primary staging areas for military personnel and supply airlift.  Misawa worked to route aircraft further south, about 230 miles away, to Sendai and Matsushima, the most significantly damaged areas.   With long hours, no days off, and continuous patience, we awaited and executed the orders of our military leadership.

No matter the stress level, we continually work toward a mission of safety and well-being for those affected by this disaster.  Even with long hours and minimal chance to recharge with off days, my Airmen and I understand what we are here to do.   Devastation may still be in the back of our minds but it really is time for Americans to adopt and internalize the meaning of “Shikata ga nai.”  Thanks to my parents, I now truly understand the strength of this phrase; who would have thought my wisdom would come so early in life and so soon in my military career.   



Oh Nelly!

There are just some things I cannot pass writing about; but after telling my story about my weekend, 18-19 Feb, to a few friends I thought to myself I should just share it with everyone. So here it goes!

As most of you know, I really enjoy travelling or just having a good adventure with a friend regardless of the location. So one PT morning, my friend Yvie asked if I wanted to go on a trip. I thought to myself, “this is great!” I couldn’t wait for the weekend and I was convinced more and more after she told me what we were in for. But I was going to say yes, regardless.

The original itinerary (very flexible) was to drive down toward Miyako and then head back north and stay at Yagen Valley.  We had a mission to see the tsunami affected areas, snow monkeys, wild horses, go snowshoeing and then relax at the Onsen. For the most part, we did see everything we set out for except the winter season prevented us from seeing the monkeys and horses. Boo.

Noda
We finally set out to our little journey. Miyako was a long drive considering the road conditions and well, the lack of driving skills from the Japanese (no offense). We stopped here and there to take pictures and about 3 hours into our trip, both of us got really quiet when we drove through the town called Noda. Although the beauty of the freshly fallen snow was laid out perfectly, underneath this were foundations of homes that once stood just a year ago. Yvie and I found a place to stop to document how precious life can be and can change in an instant… Paying our respects, we left for Miyako before we made the “U” turn to travel back north.



Noda
Noda - house foundations
What I really liked about this trip was the journey and not necessarily getting to the final destination. When I mean journey, I don’t half arse. I (we) go all the way. So you put two California girls that never really drove in snow before that potentially do not have patience for slow drivers. What’s the solution? We pass them, of course! On the drive back north toward Mutsu, we were able to chat a lot and listen to music. While on one of our passes around 3 cars (yes, I know not really the safest) we had to drive over a little bank to get back on the left side. We’ve completed this many times but this one particular time created us to look back at the folks we just passed. Yep, we slide and lost a little control and hit a snow bank, which created us to face whom we just “zoomed” past. OH NELLY! Due to our embarrassment, we made sure we were both okay and left the scene as soon as possible. I actually had to pee but we didn’t want to stop in case we “ran” into those few cars that saw us hit the bank. This was the start of an adventurous evening!

Moving forward, we finally made it back up to Misawa which was kind of disheartening since we left from there 7 hours ago. Around 7pm or so we finally arrived at our hotel. We arrived very tired, hungry and ready to eat dinner not knowing dinnertime already passed. Sometimes I don’t really understand my own culture, but they are definitely strict about the rules meaning we weren’t going to get fed.  The hotel clerk did allow us to stay parked under the awning where you temporarily park to check in since it was snowing like crazy (yep, that’s a weather term…I’m a meteorologist!).

After getting into our room, we decided to explore to scout out vending machines for food. No dice. But walking down the hall from the check-in counter, we heard singing and loud cheering. As we approached the door, I felt like the animals in the movie “Madagascar” where they were heading toward the party with the lemurs – “I like to move it, move it!” We open the door and a big poof of smoke exited and we entered into a bar. Elderly drunk people singing karaoke in their robes welcomed us. We sat at the bar seeing if they had any food like homeless kids. After conversing with the bartender lady in Japanese, she felt bad for us and grabbed food from her purse for us to eat. Along side with this conversation with the bartender, an older-older man walked next to me with one tooth chatting up a storm. Giving me the creeps I just kind of ignored him after a while. Sorry dude. 

We ordered some drinks and ate our little fish shaped snack with sweet azuki beans inside. After a while we decided to leave and hit up the onsen (hot spring) to relax. Before we did this, we grabbed another beer out of the vending machine and talked a little bit more. If anyone knows me when I drink, I tend to get the Asian glow and this night was not any different. The beer got to me faster than usual since we didn’t eat a full meal since 1pm that day. It was around 1030pm by the time we soaked in. Now, I wouldn’t recommend going into an extremely HOT bath after drinking. I think my body felt poisoned because it definitely did not like me getting in that bath after 2 beers and no food. In about 20 mins, I had no food left in my body. Being the awesome friend Yvie is, she made sure I had water to drink when she could walk! Yep, me puking in the sink and Yvie not being able to walk was a great mix. We ran back into our room right before the porcelain god lured me in. Yvie fell asleep in her robe inverted in her bed. We managed to turn off the lights and sleep until the next morning.
 
During our hike
The day we left, we begged to pay for breakfast since we missed our dinner. After the disapproving looks they finally gave in and fed us with no extra charge! We were so happy and prior to this, we enjoyed the outdoors bath with the falling snow and beautiful scenery in front of us. Afterwards we got dressed and 
West side of the Hatchet and Hokkaido out in the distance
found a spot to go 
snowshoeing. Walking down a steep hill, we managed to shoe in knee-deep snow next to a river. It was a gorgeous day with blue skies and scattered clouds. An hour or so of hiking we set off to look for the snow monkeys. Let me keep this short and say we never found them. Oh, if any of you decide to drive on route 338 in the winter I wouldn’t suggest it. It’s not well plowed and you can’t drive all the way around the hatchet. Beautiful but frustrating!

I did leave out some details but you can imagine the time we had. We covered about 17 hours of driving in 2 days. Not one point did I feel tired, bored, or had any awkward silences with my travel buddy, Yvie. It’s a bummer she had to move but I’ll always have this memory with her and once we meet again, I’m sure we’ll reminisce again about this weekend.

OH NELLY!!